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nomadic reflections

Rabwah

Rabwah. June 2011

 

I meant to write a long blog post on Rabwah, but I came back from a frantic five-cities-in-seven-days (Sahiwal, Gujranwala, Sialkot, Gojra and Rabwah) reporting trip to the battleground that Karachi turns into overnight. I also seem to have lost the ability to blog – courtesy a job that requires me to write on a daily basis – so I have these fragmented thoughts running through my head that will one day materialise here.

From Rabwah:

Ahmadis have found their own solutions in Rabwah

In Rabwah, every house has a story to tell

From Gojra and Rabwah: Despite quota, minorities beg for work

Photos on Flickr

Gojra

Pastor William points out the minarets from the balcony of his church, which was burned down in the riots in Gojra. They belong to the mosques that issued calls for residents to attack the Christian Colony.

There is a new mosque being built on the way to Gojra. Its minarets tower into the sky.

On the roof of the pastor’s house, I photograph the landscape. All I can see are minarets and burned down houses. His daughter asks me to take her picture. In the background are the crosses her family salvaged after the fire. One of them was desecrated.

In Christian Colony, I ask to see the houses that were burned down. A resident volunteers to be my guide, offering up a running commentary of the background of each house. He describes how each house was attacked, who lived there, where they hid. I hear about how their belongings were dragged out on to the street and set ablaze.

One burned house is a symbol of how minorities have been systematically persecuted in Pakistan. It belonged to the family of Sajid and Rashid Emmanuel, who were killed in Faisalabad after being accused of blasphemy.

There is resentment and sorrow. There is acceptance; that this is the state of minorities in Pakistan.

I hear accounts of Shahbaz Bhatti, the Federal Minister for Minorities Affairs who was assassinated in Islamabad in March. I hear about his funeral from residents of Khushpur, his village.

“There wasn’t a dry eye at the funeral.”

I hear about the positions he took on issues that the community felt strongly about.

I hear about their grief and shock.

With Bhatti gone, there is no hope.

There is a terrible sense of foreboding captured in the pages of my notebook. At 2 AM, I awake with a start in Gojra, imagining that there is a mob attacking my room. I peer outside. There isn’t anyone. Yet.

In the morning, two residents talk about a suspect being caught in Bhatti’s assassination case. I refresh Tribune’s website – having recalled the headline – and read out the story. The suspect has been let go for lack of evidence.

They look thoughtful and say nothing.

We go to the Catholic Church’s Sunday service. I am welcomed and introduced.

There is a prayer for Saleem Shahzad and for journalists working in Pakistan.

As I leave Gojra, I look at the minarets looming into the sky. I think of the burned houses and the piles of cash being handed out to witnesses. I wonder, for the millionth time, about what the landscape means.

My story for The Express Tribune: A compromise of life over death in Gojra

Alright then. This week has been quite dramatic, what with Mehsud dying or surviving et al. I’ve crossed over to Zeitgeist Politics for a bit (read: hijacked from a friend) which is where I’ve been posting about Mehsud and the fight at the Taliban shoora meeting.

If you’re done with poring over the Sunday papers, here’s some other food for thought:

surveyAl Jazeera commissioned a survey on Pakistan on several key issues – including how popular President Zardari really is and what Pakistanis think of the Taliban and the military operation.

Mohammed Hanif  writing about life back in Pakistan. [Guardian]

Foreign Policy’s Twitterati list. Also check out their lists for world’s worst daughters and sons. Can someone do a Pakistani version please?

Marvi Memon’s tweets. Huma blogged about this MNA’s Twitter addiction here and how impossible it is to understand what she tweets.

The past 24 hours have been incredibly depressing – from the four bomb blasts that happened in Lahore, Nowshera, Hangu and Bahawalpur to the fact that Mir Hussein Moussavi has lost the Iranian presidential election and having to wait for Zardari’s anti-climatic 6:49 minute speech till 1 AM. While I will be blogging about the Iranian election later, (for now, check out the #IranElection hashtag on Twitter, read The Majlis’ coverage or Alex’s take) here’s the article by Robert Fisk that will strike a chord with anyone who has felt the pain of applying for visas.
(I once sobbed – for a good half hour – at the Lebanese embassy in Amman because they wouldn’t give me a visa). Of course, Mr Fisk’s trials and tribulations are on a whole new level altogether.

Robert Fisk’s World: The world may be one but you need a visa to get around it

My favourite was Saudi Arabia. Repeatedly, and always in broiling summer, I would be invited to Riyadh or Jeddah to observe some new political reforms (almost always abandoned within weeks) with which they wished to curry favour with the West. It was an American colleague who told me how to avoid this. For on every Saudi visa application, there is a box, ominously marked: “Religion”. Well, I was Church of England wasn’t I? Protestant. Christian. And the visa would arrive.

But if I left the box empty, the Saudis would assume I was Jewish and the visa would not arrive. And I’d be sunbathing in Beirut while my colleagues headed off to an inferno of Saudi summer days. Of course, by the time Saddam invaded Kuwait in 1990, I was ready to declare myself a fully-fledged Wahabi to get to Dhahran.

I still remember turning up at the Saudi embassy in Beirut and handing my visiting card to the press counsellor. “Robert Fisk, Middle East Correspondent” was printed in English and Arabic. And the English-speaking diplomat looked at me quizzically. “What is ‘Middle East’?” he asked. Jesus wept.

…and my favourite part

Yes, I know it can be a pain in the arse for others to get a visa to London – and in the past I’ve watched some of our lovely visa officers treating applicants like scum – but my favourite memory was at San Francisco International Airport, where Homeland Security spotted all the pariah visas in my passport.

“Have you ever met a terrorist?” one of them asked me with a frown. Yes, I said. I met Osama bin Laden and I met Ariel Sharon. They were concerned about the bin Laden admission. But they were terrified of the political implications of discussing Sharon and terrorism. “Have a nice day, Sir,” the guy with the frown said. And stamped me through in three seconds. There must be a lesson there somewhere…

  1. Having iftar with Huda’s family and eating more food than I had in a month in one evening. Topped off by turkish coffee and strawberry cheesecake. And realizing that in a different country, you make your own family.
  2. Going to Jafra / Balad al Rasheed for post-iftar arguileh
  3. Trying to get a table at Hashem and hearing the ‘falafel shabab!’ yells and sounds
  4. Cooking my own sehri and iftar. Eating iftar on the patio under the orange tree.
  5. And perhaps the most important – feeling at peace and realizing I was fasting for me.
I started work this week – after a month of vegging out inf ront of the television reacquainting myself with Bollywood and randomness in the city, a number of job interviews and trying to figure out a career path – I am finally doing what I love – i.e. writing. Its a strange transition to be doing this full time instead of the freelancing I’ve done off and on for the past couple of years, but I am incredibly content and perhaps thats what feels strange, because I’ve finally figured out a logical start to my real life v2. Thankyou, Instep! :) Now if only the chai walas could stop wandering around Chundrigar thinking H ordered tea and get it to me on time instead..

In nomadic reflections: I don’t miss miss Jordan, but I do think about my life there and the parallels between my life here, I keep tabs on whats happening in the city and at my previous job, I wonder if I’ll ever be back — but I don’t want to go back to settle down there. At this point (and perhaps 6 months down the road I will change my mind about this in a fit of anger) nothing matters more than being back in Karachi. It may be a concrete jungle and everything may seem to be falling apart and coming together at the same time, but its mine. That didn’t make sense to me either, but its a funny feeling to have when everyone appears to be incredulous that I chose to come back and settle here.

And my favorite inebriated song of the week is..’mai talli hogayee’ – but is one-upped by the dance value of the singh is kinng (the extra n makes ALL the difference) song jee karda. vott fun!

The top ten things I miss about Amman (in no order of preference. except Hashem)

  1. Hashem.
  2. Having karkadeh and shisha at Balad al Rasheed. Free coffee refills at Books@ is a close second..
  3. Lebanese pastries at 1 AM..or any other time when I was too lazy/tired to cook
  4. Darat al Funun – the sheer beauty of the building, the amazing art exhibits, drinking tea next to the fountain, the films, the view..
  5. Walking in Jabal Webdeih
  6. The Starbucks terrace on a sunny Friday afternoon. I recently discovered Cups n Kilos in al Rabieh which was far better for working on a lazy afternoon.
  7. Free concerts
  8. Random kindness
  9. Always being mistaken to be Arab or Jordanian.
  10. Feeling like a local in a city that was not quite mine, but not quite foreign either.

And two rather differing viewpoints on moving back home – both of which have struck a chord:

Mohammad Hanif on swapping London for Karachi

..and this quote from Prozac Nation:

Homesickness is just a state of mind for me. I’m always missing someone or someplace or something. I’m always trying to get back to some imaginary somewhere. My life has been one long longing.

Still awake at 3:00 AM. I don’t know if this is insomnia, the unadjusted sleep cycle or the general routine I associate with home – sleeping all morning and staying awake all night. Staying awake isn’t as poetic as it used to be. I should sleep now, since in 8 hours the electricity will go off, which is when I usually wake up, disoriented and wondering where I am. Its strange to find Frosties in a cabinet..or not leave the house for even something like a bag of chips – it seemed so routine back in Amman. Or to stare at bookshelves crammed full of books — one of the first things I did once I was unpacked (read: H putting away all my stuff) was to settle down with a big bag of chili chips and Mohammad Hanif’s A Case of Exploding Mangoes (brilliant. brilliant. brilliant. no wonder it was sold out.) I suppose the vegetative state I’m in needs to be emerged from soon (Armani clad, and fully awesome ala Barney…except I don’t own anything by Armani)

For now, I’m happy on my steady diet of DVDs, chicklit novels, Bollywood music channels (this Soni de Nakhre song from Partner is stuck in my head!) and food that I did not cook in a fit of anger in my kitchen in Amman. I do miss speaking Arabic though.

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